The Long, Long Trail

The proposal.

Over my winter break in December, Mary had asked me if I wanted to join her on a 270, 11 day fast packing trip across the length of Vermont on The Long Trail. I naively agreed.

The Views!!

I had not done much research and just assumed it would be a cool training trip for CCC in terms of testing nutrition, time on my feet and having a pack on. I would use every piece of gear I needed for CCC. I had been to Vermont twice before to pace her and a friend in the VT100 mile race. I thought, it's just hiking, how hard could it be?

Starting the journey

Being 20 years old, training harder than I ever had, I was thinking I could pretty much do anything; 270 miles in 11 days would not be a problem. I did not think much about the trip until I finished school mid June and all of a sudden I was to fly out in 6 days. Mary had been texting me all week telling me everything I should and probably needed.  Hmm, the list was more extensive than I thought, which led to many last minute trips to REI and SFRC. Even to Jorge's doorstep a half hour before I was to leave to borrow a sleeping pad!

I flew to Vermont Saturday night on a red-eye, planning to have most of Sunday to relax and get ready for the trek. Unfortunately, due to a United fiasco I was delayed and spent all of Sunday in the Newark airport. I arrived in Vermont at midnight. Obviously I was not going to start at the Canadian border with Mary at 6 am the next morning, so I would meet her later in the evening.

Climbing up a ladder in Devil's Gulch

One of the shelter's we slept in!

I arrived on the trail to meet Mary for the last 5 miles of the night. I had my borrowed pack all set to go and ate a quick on the go dinner before we set off. My energy was high and my excitement uncontrollable (despite carrying a 30lb pack!) I hopped and skipped and pranced through the gorgeous greenery and chatting wildly with enthusiasm. Mary had already done 18 miles so she was not as keen to be jumping about.  That evening I had my first taste of what was to come. We hiked two miles an hour, impossibly slow compared to even a tired day while running. We climbed up steep hills with no switchbacks and hiked down equally steep descents.  We arrived to the shelter we were to camp at and quickly set up our sleeping bags. We wanted to get as much shut eye as possible before a long, big day.  The shelters are scattered along the trail and often have fantastic views of the landscape you ordinarily cannot see through the dense forest. A trickling brook nearby supplied our water for the next day.

Stuck between a rock and a hard place

Yup.

Going to sleep was very interesting that night. We heard little mice crawling about and had to rearrange and hang our food several times. Mary and I ended up sharing a bunk to quell our nighttime fears.  Before shutting my eyes I caught sight of a flashing light in the corner of the cabin. I frantically told mary that I was going crazy already and was scared. Turns, out, I had just seen my first firefly. I had a restless night and was woken up around 3 am by two hikers coming in for the night.

Sun, Sun, Mr. Golden Sun

GREEN!

In the morning we awoke to a gorgeous sunrise, ate a quick breakfast and were on our way! The best idea I had was to put my instant espresso into a Salomon soft flask and slowly sip all day; it was wonderfully welcomed. The hours go by so slowly but also so fast it is incredible. Every time we got to a shelter we stopped to consult the map and eat a quick snack. We hiked through several different types of forests. We would be traipsing through ferns up to our waists and sloshing through some thick mud. It was unclear whether the mud was thick enough to support our weight or if we would sink down into it.  The trees changed from aspens to birch to everything in between.  We climbed several steep uphills and struggled down the descents, 1000' per mile sometimes for 3 or more miles. It was tricky because a lot of the trail seemed to not be a trail at all; the only way it seemed to exist was purely by the hikers coming through. The trail was never smooth or easy. It was always hopping over the mud, balancing on the logs that were sometimes laid down, or literally rock climbing up or lowering yourself down. I felt like it was a game of the ultimate trust fall every time we descended as we had to grab ahold of the rocks, roots and trees to go down or pull yourself up.  Devil's Gulch was kind of crazy. We had to climb up a ladder, go "bouldering", and walk across slick, treacherous wet rock. I am more surprised than proud that I did not take any tumbles that day. After 10 hours of hiking, we met Mary's husband Mark at the road crossing.  He took our packs, refilled our water bottles and fed our ravenous stomachs with some food.  I ate some salami, Fritos chips, french fries and maybe something else. It was incredibly delicious.  We would then hike the next 6 miles without our packs and only water bottles to meet him again.

Starting again at Sunset.

Peaked.

Mary taking it all in

Mary's feet were killing her and starting to blister; ours both had been wet all day, so I'm sure mine were starting to blister as well.  At that road crossing, I felt fine and eager to continue into the night. However, as soon as we started, I started to feel the fatigue and weight of the previous 10 hours. I wandered like a zombie behind Mary. I felt as though I had tunnel vision, only seeing where her feet meandered around the trail.  I felt somewhere between drunk and sleepwalking. I wasn't very talkative and my feet started to really kill me. They were so sore and tired! I stumbled along the trail not caring if I stepped in mud or hit a brach with my arm. After 12 hours and 47 minutes we reached mark again at the next road crossing. He picked us up and took us back to their camp, as we were very close by, for the night. I don't even remember falling asleep.

Top of the World

The next morning we awoke to a classic Vermont downpour. We gathered a light pack of just necessary food and water as we would see Mark again that evening, We started hiking up the road and soon came to a river crossing. Knowing we would get our feet wet all day we just hiked through it, not caring. the trail continued up and up, we soon found ourselves bushwacking up a flowing river. We did not doubt it was the trail as the trail was ridiculously crazy, but we did not see the white vertical rectangles painted on trees along the way for quite some time.  We were soon frantic and turned around. We found the trail again and saw where we had made a wrong turn. However, we lost an hour and a half and added 3ish miles of hiking! It was so disheartening and just added mental discomfort to the bleary day.  The trail of course, wasn't any different from what we had been doing off trail, but it was harder.  We hiked up and down waterfalls. The rocks were wet and water oftentimes flowed over them in small rivers.  It was tough, even with a light pack, to haul yourself up and over the obstacles.  Going down was even worse as it was uncertain every time you put your body weight down over one foot if it would be supported or slip out from under you. We were also paranoid looking for the white blazes indicating we were not lost.  You would start to wonder, "has it been too long? where could we have gotten off course? We are definitely lost!", but then moments later one would appear.  The previous day was filled with talking and stories and occasionally singing. Today, there was nothing. We hiked in near silence, concentrating on our footing and finding the trail, but I think it was also due to exhaustion.  Hours came and went. The rain continued on. A small respite from the unforgiving trail was a short hike up a downhill ski run. Haha! that is a break!  Mary accurately described the trail as "The trail that keeps on giving!"Soon (9 hours later), we met Mark on the road. We were tired, wet, hungry and mentally drained. We decided that after 18 miles in the pouring rain and over that crazy, course, we were done. We would not attempt to ascend and descend the highest peak in Vermont: Mt Mansfield, which loomed before us through the fog.  We went home to a welcomed hot shower and food and rest.

I would not continue with Mary the next day as my feet were killing me and I was so exhausted. I did not want to push myself over the edge before CCC. Mary had a tough day climbing Mt Mansfield in the clouds and crazy rocks at the top. I soon joined her the next evening. I even took a shakeout run on Thursday up the mountain behind Lake Elmore. Thursday night we had some pizza and then hiked straight up a ski mountain, of course not on the groomed open downhill, but on the technical side trail. We had to climb ladders drilled into the rock faces because it was so steep.  We finally reached Stark's nest, a warming hut, on top of Mad River Glen ski slope. We woke up to another lovely sunrise and went on our way. This time, our day was cheerfully welcomed.  It is hard to describe in more detail the days and the trail, but it was more hours and hours. I soon grew weary and my feet started to hurt.  The hours and miles dragged by and we began to feel desperate; where was this shelter we were staying at? We eventually reached it, ate, and fell fast asleep, sorta. At Skyline Lodge, there were several other hikers, both for the night and through hikers, so it was a tight squeeze and not much sleep amongst the snorers.  In the morning we packed up quickly and started hiking. Mark would meet us 5.5 miles at the next road crossing and I would end my journey and he would hike with Mary for the rest of the day and night. Mary ended her journey the next day because her quad and knees were killing her.  The words I have for describing this trail and adventure are as follows: deceptive, rugged, rural, relentless, beautiful, degrading, giving, green, fun, technical, and interesting.

Done.

And Done.

It's hard to think that you couldn't finish something. It's much easier to mentally make yourself feel better about losing in a race. Okay, maybe I didn't have their experience, didn't know the course, didn't put the miles they did. But to lose to a trail is a whole other story. It's a bit disappointing knowing you didn't have it in you to complete a goal or to even keep up with Mary. It is incredibly humbling to have to stop because your body just cannot handle the terrain and the long hours. Even though I am 20, I have a long way to go; I am not indestructible nor immortal.

chicken nuggets anyone?

This past week, after TLT, I have resumed running and enjoyed Vermont with Mary and her family. We went to Shelburne farms, hung out by the lake, and I even raced a 5:50 mile road race in Montpelier an hour after eating at Ben & Jerry's (very lactose intolerant...)

5:50 ain't too shabby!

Big thanks to Mary & her amazing family for inviting and taking care of me on this awesome adventure. Also thanks to my family for supporting me in my crazy ideas of fun... Onwards to CCC!

Ben & Jerry's! Just had to indulge... 

The destruction.

In terms of gear used: S-Lab light jacket, Salomon Bonatti Jacket, Sense Ultra SG, 2XU calf sleeves, TNF Better than Naked Shorts, Tech T shirts, Arcteryx pack, Marmut sleeping bag, S-Lab 12 set pack, Black Diamond Z poles, Mammoth & NuGo bars, Tailwind, SFRC buff, WS100 visor, Black Diamond Headlamp, Injinji socks, Salomon long sleeve.